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3. Candied citrus
Curate a pot of juiced citrus husks – lemon, orange, pink
grapefruit (my favourite along with blood orange for its pink
hue) and you can have a Martha Stewart-esque jar of jewelled
lobes of fruit in your kitchen all year round. What a festive flex:
‘Why yes, I do make my own candied peel.’ Use it in fruit cakes,
Christmas fruit mince pies (page 119), Pistachio and lemon
iced buns (page 213) or hot cross buns. It also makes a lovely
gift for those who like citrus peel. Risk gifting it to a peel hater,
however, and you may find yourself on the receiving end of a
tight smile and frosty communication for some time after. The
contempt for candied peel is real.


The process is simply simmering in ascending intensity of sugar
syrups. If you want to take it further, slice the cooled lobes
into 5 mm in) strips and dip in dark chocolate for the most
classically fancy end to a dinner soiree.

Cut the halved husks into halves again. I keep the pulp attached to the
pith so the vesicles can colour the syrup (this is especially lovely with
pink grapefruits and blood oranges). Place in an approximately 25 cm
(10 in) wide, non-reactive pot and cover with a copious amount of
water. Add the pinch of salt and simmer effervescently, covered, for
1 hour or until the white pith of the citrus is a translucent shade of
the fruit’s rind (e. g. the pink grapefruit pith is a subdued lucent pink,
the lemon pith is faintly yellow). Keep topping up with water if it looks
like it’s getting low.


Rinds vary in thickness and stubbornness, so if you are boiling a thin and
thick-skinned rind in the same batch, follow the cookedness of the thicker
skin. You can’t really overboil a rind.

Drain and discard the water and set the peel aside. In the same pot
(no need to wash), stir together the 500 g (1 lb 2 oz) sugar and the
water and bring to the boil. Add the drained peel and keep on a
constant yet gentle simmer, for 1 hour. Keep the pot uncovered.

Keeping the lid on will in troduce steam and dilute the sugar syrup.

Makes Around 500 g (1 lb 2 oz) Keeps Indefinitely when chilled.
candied peel.

Takes 3 days.


6 skin-on half husks of lemon,
tangelo, orange or lime, or
4 half husks of pink grapefruit.


Avoid mandarins (too thin-
skinned; they’ll disintegrate).


Frozen citrus husks, defrosted,
are good to use too – the
freezing starts to break the
cell structure down.

pinch of salt
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) caster
(superfine) sugar, plus
300 g (10½ oz) for the
second simmer
1 kg/ l (2 lb 2 oz) water
The only rule here is that whatever
and however much citrus peel
you choose, just ensure they are
generously swimming in the sugar
syrup. The amount below is a
guide  for a one part sugar to two
parts water ratio.